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This Just In...

Kevin Fischer is an award-winning veteran broadcaster who has been seen and heard on Milwaukee TV and radio stations for nearly three decades.
Kevin, who is a legislative aide to state Sen. Mary Lazich (R-New Berlin), can be seen offering his views on the news on the public affairs program, “InterCHANGE,” on Milwaukee Public Television Channel 10, and heard filling in on Newstalk 1130 WISN. He lives with his wife, Jennifer, and their baby daughter, Kyla Audrey, in Franklin.

Culinary no-no #42

By Kevin Fischer
Sunday, Feb 17 2008, 03:17 PM
The Lenten season has arrived meaning Friday night fish fries are even more popular.

That means plates of golden brown cod, haddock or perch, cole slaw, rye bread, french fries, and potato pancakes. The question is, how best to eat those pancakes?

Former FranklinNOW blogger Janet Evans on a few occasions has given me her opinion on the proper accompaniment to potato pancakes. I invited her to provide guest commentary for this week’s edition of Culinary no-no. Here’s Janet’s take, and then I’ll give you mine:


Let’s face it; some people just know more than others when it comes to certain types of food.  Like potato pancakes, for instance.

I grew up on potato pancakes.  My grandfather, who was born in Latvia, was a peasant who practically lived on potatoes.  He also had homemade sour cream.  Later, in America, when he was 30 he married his 15 year old bride and taught her that when you make potato pancakes, you have to have sour cream along with them.

I make great potato pancakes.  Hand grated potatoes with grated onion, flour, egg, salt, and pepper.  Before I fry them, I cook bacon and save the bacon grease.  The pancakes are then cooked in the bacon grease so they turn out with very crispy edges.  The crispy, hot pancakes are served immediately, with sour cream, and crumbled bacon on top.  Perfection.
 When I moved to Wisconsin, I saw some strange food customs.  One of them that stopped me in my tracks was applesauce with potato pancakes!  What’s that all about?  You do not mix apples with potatoes.  Especially cold applesauce with hot, potato pancakes.  Talk about a no-no.  It isn’t like Wisconsinites don’t know what sour cream is.  Go to any restaurant in the Dairy State at dinner time and listen to the patrons order their baked potatoes with sour cream. 

So, tell me, Kevin Fischer, what is it that I don’t get about Wisconsin and potato pancakes?  And don’t tell me it is a German custom.  I’m part German too.

Potato Pancakes with sour cream?  Yes-yes. 

Potato Pancakes with applesauce?  No-no.


First of all, putting sour cream on potato pancakes is not the most blatant example of a culinary no-no. You can search online for recipes for potato pancakes and find some that suggest sour cream. However, most, if not all of the recipes that mention sour cream also mention applesauce. Not all of the recipes that mention applesauce also mention sour cream.

One year ago, the late Dennis Getto of the Milwaukee Journal/Sentinel wrote that potato pancakes were part of the trio that made a great fish fry (the fish and cole slaw the other two ingredients).

Getto had this to say about the pancakes:

“By far the best sidekick for fried fish is genuine, homemade potato pancakes. The best are made from freshly grated or ground potato, enhanced with a little minced onion. The mixture is bound with egg (or egg and flour), formed into patties and fried or grilled.

Many restaurants use batter mixes, which result in pancakes that are mushy and not at all crisp. Some offer a maple syrup option to the more typical applesauce accompaniment.”

Notice he didn’t include sour cream?

From Getto’s article, a photo of the fish fry from the Lakefront Brewery Palm Garden:







I see applesauce on the plate. You see any sour cream?

From Karl Ratzsch's Dinner Menu:

Potato Pancakes (Served with Apple Sauce) ~6.25

Again, no sour cream.

Go to the Bartolotta fish fry in the Boerner Botanical Gardens.

Guess what they put on the buffet table for your potato pancakes?

And I could go on and on.

Cold applesauce?

The applesauce served at restaurants in these parts isn’t cold.

Janet, Janet, Janet. Sour cream and bacon bits are great……….on a baked potato.

Sour cream on a potato pancake?

No, no.

Applesauce is much better.


PREVIOUS CULINARY NO-NO’S

1) Ketchup on a brat
2) Green peppers on pizza
3) The dirty martini
4) Fruity brats
5) A Bloody Mary after dinner
6) Women “manning” the grill
7) Eating pizza at Festa Italiana, brats at German Fest, or tacos at Fiesta Mexicana. (Be adventurous. You can have those items anytime).
8) Eating a cream puff as though it was a hamburger.
9) Taking your own bottle of sauce when invited to a barbecue.
10) Touching the grill if you’re a guest at an outdoor barbecue.
11) Coaching the host on how to grill.
12) Some regional flavored ice cream…..like black licorice.
13) Taking the husks off before you grill corn on the cob
14) Being afraid to chill red wine
15) Pizza on the grill
16) When serving exotic or strange dishes to guests, do not tell them exactly what it is. Instead, use a more inviting term (caviar) rather than being blunt (fish eggs).
17) In late summer and early fall, this time of year, don’t buy zucchini. Somehow, someway, you will find zucchini or zucchini will find you.
18) Showing disrespect to your restaurant server.
19) Eating out on a Monday night.
20) Pumpkin beer.
21) Mail-order turkey.
22) Grilled cheese is just for kids.
23) Dining in the dark.
24) Ketchup on spaghetti
25) Sneaking healthy foods into treats to get your kids to eat it.
26) Do not throw away culinary gifts received in the mail because you don’t like them.
27) Do not feel guilty about eating Oreos. (Oreos are not to blame for out of control obesity).
28) Doing something so totally ridiculous that you are desperately forced to call the Butterball Turkey Hot-Line for assistance.
29) Don’t forget the sweet potato January-October.
30) Using resource guides from the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s on gracious living to plan holiday parties
31) Eating cranberries, the best of the super-foods, only during the holidays.
32) Egg nog that isn’t spiked.
33) Putting hot spices and other weird stuff in chocolate bars and hot cocoa.
34) Don’t disregard fruitcake.
35) Sparkling wine on New Year’s Eve ain’t champagne.
36) Ordering a Coors Light or any facsimile when at an outdoor open-air bar on a tropical beach.
37) Smoking bans in restaurants and bars in Wisconsin.
38) Goat burgers and healthy items at tailgate parties.

39) The restaurant of the future, with all kinds of cameras trained on you for....research.
40) The Budweiser Chelada
41) Replating

Comments

Janet Evans   

Kevin, Kevin, Kevin...

I'm sure I am allowed to respond, since you "baited" me with the Friday night fish fry...another local custom.  I thought we were just speaking about potato pancakes.

It makes it very difficult for me to sway the minds of local fish fry participants who see the picture of that plate of fish, with the potato pancakes and applesauce.  I would have loved to have fried up a plate of my pancakes and snapped a photo of them for you to include in this post.

Have you ever had a potato pancake, hot and crispy, with sour cream and crisp bacon?  I have had the unfortunate experience of the shameful applesauce.  And it was not always "warm."  It appeared to be right of a bottle.  

And maple syrup on a potato pancake?  It takes a lot of work to hand grate potatoes.  Why bother to go to the work of making a potato pancake to take away the taste by dousing it with maple syrup?  

I would put a plate of my potato pancakes with sour cream and bacon up against a plate of yours with just applesauce in a contest, and win hands down.  (Without the fish, and with open-minded judges, of course).

P.S.

I don't use sour cream and bacon on my baked potato...just butter.

February 17, 2008 5:41 PM

Kevin Fischer   

I bet your pancakes are yummy......with applesauce.

February 17, 2008 5:45 PM

Bryan Maersch   

No No No - Just a little bit of sugar mixed with cinnamon on top of them.

February 17, 2008 5:51 PM

Kevin Fischer   

Another country (Polish) heard from.

February 17, 2008 5:54 PM

Janet Evans   

Bryan...we are not talking about Cinnamon Toast.

Kevin,

My potato pancakes are yummy, but I would not let you ruin a masterpiece by putting applesauce on the same plate.

And if you ever want to get into fish fries..well, I have an opinion there too.

February 17, 2008 6:00 PM

Kevin Fischer   

Yes, Janet, I'm sure you have an opinion on fish fries.

You probably slab ketchup all over the fish, drop peanut butter in the cole slaw, and smear tartar sauce on your fries......after you've dumped sour cream on the pancakes.

I don't think even Elvis would eat that combo.

February 17, 2008 6:33 PM

Janet Evans   

Lemon on my fish...no tartar sauce...

Only homemade cole slaw, with red wine vinegar...

I rarely eat fries (potato pancakes)....

You forgot the rye bread...marble is O.K., but I prefer regular Jewish rye.

February 17, 2008 6:46 PM

Kevin Fischer   

Janet, if we weren't already friends, I'd borrow the last line from "Casablanca" right about now.

February 17, 2008 7:02 PM

Janet Evans   

"Here's looking at you kid?

Oh, no, no that's not correct ...had me worried for a second.

Now I remember... I like you too, Kevin!

February 17, 2008 7:14 PM

Kevin Fischer   

February 17, 2008 7:18 PM

Janet Evans   

Dear Kevin...

I know that...that's why I said I like you too.  I was joking about the first quote!  But thanks for the video clip.

February 17, 2008 7:22 PM

Janet Evans   

By the way...

Those potato pancakes in your photo...

Those are "shredded" not "grated."

Hmpf...

Somebody was lazy....

February 17, 2008 7:24 PM

Scott Thinnes   

I love potato(e) pancakes...with maple syrup, sure...apple sauce, why not...sour cream, I'd try it.

Can we talk about red cabbage and raisins? Yum Yum. Or, better yet, Miracle Whip and Wavey Lays on white bread!! I'm getting hungry.

February 17, 2008 8:02 PM

Kevin Fischer   

My God!

The culinary no-no's are coming out of the woodwork!

Where is Karen, the #1 fan of the Culinary no-no blog on this?

February 17, 2008 8:12 PM

Janet Evans   

Wait...Scott is just weird when it comes to food.

And it figures he would be one of those who uses maple syrup and ruins a potato pancake.  What does he put on a regular pancake?

At least Scott would try sour cream.

Oh, and it's red cabbage and bacon.

February 17, 2008 8:23 PM

Kevin Fischer   

Janet, nothing wrong with maple syrup (which, if I'm not mistaken came from the East) on any pancake.

I need further explanation on this cabbage-raisin deal. Sounds like next Sunday's entry.

February 17, 2008 8:44 PM

Scott Thinnes   

They can't be regular pancakes they have to be buckwheat pancakes. And they have to be frosted with butter and floating in maple syrup.

And what's with all the pork fat! Don't you know that stuffs bad for you?

What's really good are those little thin slices of hard rye bread, spread with cottage cheese, drizzled with EVOO and top with some fresh ground black pepper.

February 17, 2008 8:51 PM

Scott Thinnes   

February 17, 2008 8:58 PM

Janet Evans   

No, Scott,

You slice fresh Jewish rye bread in thick slices, and fry it in butter.  Fried rye bread.  Yum.

And, you spread cottage cheese on Wonder Bread to the edges, dot it with butter, then put it under the broiler until the cottage cheese is melted.  Then criss-cross two slices of cooked bacon over it and put it under the broiler a bit more.

February 17, 2008 9:03 PM

Janet Evans   

I love Martha...but that's funky sweet and sour red cabbage.  

February 17, 2008 9:06 PM

Kevin Fischer   

Who's on first?

This blog is out of control.

February 17, 2008 9:14 PM

Scott Thinnes   

My old country, German grandmother, used to make that red cabbage and raisin stuff when I was a little kid. Back then you couldn't even get me in the same room with it. But now, I kinda miss her making it.

I'm gonna have to try that Wonder Bread thing. Sounds like it would go good with a Sprecher Oktoberfest, but then, what wouldn't? I'll skip the bacon. The only time bacon belongs between bread (toast) is when it's partying with some tomato slices and lettuce in a pool of mayo.

February 17, 2008 9:16 PM

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